Assuming that the hose spews out about 11 litres per minute in a circle somewhat larger than a metre in diameter, so I roughly calculate the gardener would need to stand immobile for over two minutes before continuing on to another metre-diameter circle of thirsty plants. Pretty boring, if you have a vegetable or flower garden.
There is A sprinkler 1 solution.
Even better is “drip irrigation,” a way of applying water to crops slowly and over an elongated time period. Irrigation has many advantages, not the least of which is currently cutting water usage down . That water savings comes from waste and evaporation; throughout the drip method, water is not wasted on paths or between plants. So there is also weed growth. Garden plants grow and leaves means disease.
A drip irrigation system could be cobbled together by running water through an old garden hose that has its own end plugged and’s riddled with holes. The issue is less water would drip from those in the start than from the holes in the end, and higher ground would get less water.
A trickle irrigation system that you buy has water emitters engineered to give a consistent output over changes in pressure and altitude. They made to be resistant to root or clogging penetration. You can purchase tubing with emitters say, 45 or 15, 30 centimetres apart for watering beds. Or you can purchase solid tubing and punch in wher you need — perfect for plants that are widely spaced.
Emitters, people installed or those which you plug input water out to 15 litres an hour at a speed of 2.
To get plants or a flower bed, like carrots, tubing with emitters wets the bed. Attraction into pores in the soil draw on water even as water is being pulled by gravity so areas inside the soil overlap.
Parting the water
The lateral spread of Water depends from approximately 30 cm from soils to about a metre in clays. These dripper lines could be laid out a metre to 2 metres depending on whether the soil is a clay or a sand. Soils are clay that is pure or sand, so spacing is located somewhere in between.
And organic matter (humus) in a soil helps sponge water up to improve lateral spread of the wetting front.
For plants, like trees and shrubs, figure on using tubing with one or more emitters beside each plant. Emitters that attach to the ends of tubes that are elastic are helpful for watering plants.
With tubes, emitters and a hose in place, we’re now back in the hose spigot. Filter and a pressure reducer are required before a connection is made to the spigot. The pressure drops to approximately 10 psi, which is a system demands, and dispenses with the need for any pressure fittings. Along with a filter reduces the odds of any.
All in the time
At the hose spigot is the aspect of a trickle irrigation system: the timer. The water turns off and on, and at about the speed that water is being used by garden crops.
Needless to say, water use is dependent upon the size and type and the weather of crops, but a half hour of dripping daily is about perfect. That may seem like lots of water, but bear in mind, the water is leaking. If a timer can turn the water off and on three times each day, place if for three 10-minute waterings; if six times daily, set it for six 5-minute waterings; etc..
The timer brings a significant advantage of trickle irrigation. As opposed to standing frozen in your garden you become free to do anything else. Like smelling the flowers.